antiaging notepad contents

2005-10-13T23:05:00.000-07:00

Anti-aging Skin Care

What Causes Wrinkles?
sun damage: "photoaging", or over-exposer to sunlight can cause wrinkles. This happens because UVA/UVB rays damage both collagen fibers & cause the production of abnormal elastin. It also causes free radicals and can cause DNA mutations that result in skin cancer. When UV light damages the skin an enzyme (metalloproteinase) is produced. This enzyme is responsible for creating and reforming collagen, however during this process some healthy collagen fibers are damaged resulting in a disorganized formation of fibers. By continually rebuilding the skin with damaged collagen wrinkles form over time.

aging: Wrinkles simply are a by-product of aging. As we age skin cells divide more slowly, the dermis thins, and collagen and elastin (the major protiens of the skin) in the outer layer of skin loosen to cause wrinkles and sagging. The skin is also looses some of it's moisture rentention properties, and the oil glands that can seem to produce so much oil during the teen-age years are less efficient over time, and the skin is also slower to heal. Add to that photoaging and possible DNA mutations from UV exposure and skin can wrinkle very easily as we age.

facial muscle contractions: Habitual facial contractions can cause wrinkles in certain areas of the face, specifically around the mouth, on the forehead, around the eyes ("crows feet"), and between the eyebrows. Overtime these habitual facial expressions in conjunction with gravity can cause wrinkles and sagging skin.

smoking: Smoking is bad for the skin for three reasons: it releases free radicals into the body; reduces production of new collagen; and is a cause of habitual facial muscle contractions. Over a long period of time the exposure to free radications (if not neutralized by anti-oxidants) can cause genetic mutations in the DNA which can cause skin and other cancers. Lack of new collagen production can cause skin to loose it's firmness. Additionally the repetative facial contractions enduced by smoking can cause wrinkles, especially around the mouth.
Prevention & Sunscreen:
protect your skin from the sun: The best way to prevent wrinkles before they start is to protect your skin from harmful UV rays. No matter what your age you should use minimum of a broad spectrum (meaning it protects from both UVA & UVB rays) spf 15 every day and reapply every 2 hours or as directed by the packaging. Also:
limiting sun exposure between the hours of 10am & 4pm when the sun is at it's most intense;
wearing sunscreen even when indoors or under shade as UV rays can reflect off the ground or filter through windows. this includes using a lip balm with a sunscreen as lips can burn and are prone to skin cancer ;
wearing wide-brimmed hats and wearing pants and long sleaved shirts, and sunglasses (they protect the skin around your eyes, and keep you from squinting which can cause "crows feet");
avoiding tanning beds & "sun bathing";
will all help avoid the formation of wrinkles. Additionally sun exposure can worsen acne scars, cause hyperpgmentation, freckles, and skin cancer so it is essential to protect yourself from it's harmful UV rays.

other preventative measures:
keep skin well hydrated by using both topical moisturizers, and comsuming essentical fatty acids and plenty of water (eight 8 ounce glasses of water a day is recommended for overall wellbeing)
do not smoke and comsume alcohol in limited quantaties as they produce free radicals

Topical Treatments:
vitamin A derivatives: vitamin A derivatives come in both perscrition and non-perscription strength. The perscription form of vitamin A is known as "trentinoin" and is the active ingedient in Retin-A and Renova. This is the most potent form as it is "biologically active" and there is no assimilation process necessary for it to enter into the molecular structure of the skin. For some people trentinoin is too irritating for the skin and over the counter vitamin A derivatives are preferable as the body has to convert them into a usable form via an enzyme process before they can enter into the molecular stucture of the skin. OTC vitamin A derivatives come in many different forms however, the most common forms are (from most to least potent): retinaldehyde (or "retinal"), retinol, and reinol palmitate.These topicals increase the natural exfoliation process of the skin from 30 days to as little as 6-7 days. Because of this some of the side effects include red, irritated skin; dehydrated skin; peeling of the skin; and increased sensitivity to sun exposure. Depending on your skin you may only experience increased sensitivity to sun exposure, or all of the afore mentioned symptoms. Vitamin A derivatives have been proven to improve mottled skin, fine lines and wrinkles, and even skin tone and texture. However there is a catch-22 to it. It signifigantly increases the skins sensitivity to the sun and makes skin more likely to be damaged by sun exposure, so when using vitamin A derivatives it is imperative to use the best and highest spf available in order to prevent sun damage while fixing damage previously done by use of these derivatives. Suggested use is daily for the first year, and 2-3 times weekly after that.

antioxidants: Vitamins A, C, & E, the mineral selenium, alpha-lipoic acid, and the enzymes glutathione peroxidase, superoxide dismutase, co-enzyme Q10, and catalase are all antioxidants, and are good for the skin (and overall wellbeing) when taken both internally (see below) and aplied externally. Aside from vitamin A and it's derivatives the most common antioxidants for topical use are vitamins C & E, and alpha-lipoic acid, so I will stick to those for this discussion.
To date vitamin C is the only antioxidant that is proven to stimulate collagen synthesis, which becomes more and more important as you age and your skins production decreases. Vitamin C also helps to minimize fine lines, scars, and wrinkles. Additionally it can reduce UV absorbtion of the skin, and helps repair sun damaged skin. However, in it's most potent form (l-acsorbic acid) it is highly unstable when exposed to oxygen therefore it must be stored in an air-tight container to maintain potency, or it will degrade and eventually become useless. Because it is also a water-soluble vitamin it breaks down quickly in a water-based formulation unless other chemicals are used to stabilize it.

Vitamin E (a-tocopherol or alpha-tocopherol) is also an important antioxidant. It is a fat-soluble vitamin unlike vitamin C which is water soluble, and plays a key role in protecting cells from free radicals. Used topically it helps reduce production of sunburned skin cells, eases UV induced damage, and reduces the production of cancer causing cells. It can also enhance the effects of vitamin C on the skin.
Alpha-lipoic acid is a relatively new & is highly potent; more so than both vitamin E & C. It is both water and fat soluble which means that it can enter all areas of the cell which also helps to make it more potent. It diminishes fine lines, and offers the greatest protection from free radicals when compared to other antioxidants. Additionally it helps to boost levels of other antioxidants such as vitamin C.

alpha & beta hydroxy acids: Alpha hydroxy acids are plant substances that accelerate the natural exfoliation process with minimal side effects. In addition to helping to diminish fine lines they also help even skin tone and overall texture. The most common alpha hydroxy acids are: lactic, glycolic, fruit acids, and alpha-hydroxyethanoic acid. Beta Hydroxy Acid (salicylic acid) in addition to it's benefits to acne prone skin has been shown to be less irritating to some than alpha hydroxy acids while similarily improving the skin. As with vitamin A derivatives sunscreen should be used to help protect the skin from sun damage as the exfoliation from hydroxy acids can increase sun sensitivity.

copper peptides: Copper peptides have been available since 1997 and are often referred to as the most effective skin regeneration product available. Copper peptides have been shown to promote collagen and elastin production, and it also acts as an antioxidant. It works so well because many of the bodys natural tissue building enzymes are copper dependent, and when present it allows them to quickly and efficiently build new healthy tissue. Copper peptides help to firm, smooth, and soften the skin because of this, and works quicker than most other anti-aging products. Another benefit is that it helps to remove damaged and scarred tissue from the skin improving the appearance of scars and hyperpigmentation.

hyaluronic acid: Hyaluronic acid (glycosaminoglycan) is a naturally occuring substance in the body found in joint fluids, young skin, and other tissues. However as you age the body produces less of it and diet and smoking can negatively affect production. Often times HA is used in conjunction with vitamin C in order to increase the absobtion rate of the later.

DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol): DMAE is naturally produced in the brain, but is also present in fatty fishes like salmon. Use of DMAE topically reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and helps to diminish under-eye circles.

Supplements:
essential fatty acids: essential fatty acids are "essential" because they are not produced by the body, but are necessary to the proper developement and continued health of body. The most common forms are mixed fish oils (usually a blend of salmon and cod liver oils), flax seed oil, and borage seed oil. In addition to benfiting overall health they are also free radical scavengers and help to increase the hydration level of the skin. However it is important to have a balanced intake of omega 3 & 6 fatty acids for proper absobtion.

antioxidants: antioxidants are chemicals that prevent oxidation of free radicals which can damage skin and cause DNA mutations. Additionally they can be helpful when fighting an infection. Berries and green tea are high in antioxidants.

Professional Treatments:
botox: "botox" is the commercial name for Botulinum toxin, or "botulism". It is a powerful neurotoxin and can be dangerous when not used by a trained professional. Botox can be injected via a very fine needle into certain areas of the face to inhibit facial muscle contractions and therefore inhibit the formation of, or continued formation of wrinkles. However, it is not a permanent solution and the injections must be performed several times a year in order to sustain the effects.
topical expression inhibiting creams: these are creams that use numbing agents to temporarily inhibit facial contractions to the area applied. The effects can last for minutes or hours, but they do wear off. Some claim that with repeated use these creams can inhibit the formation of wrinkles in the much the same way as botox.

dermabrasion: dermabrasion uses small spherical particles to sand away the top layer of skin. It helps to diminsh fine lines, and can reduce some scarring and photodamage. It has similar effects to that of chemical peels (see below) without the complications of deep peels. Dermabrasion cannot be used on the thin skin around the eyes, and care should be taken when doing it around the mouth as well. Also make sure your skincare professional has extensive experience in using dermabrasion as it is easy to wound the skin, and therefore cause scarring and/or infection.
at-home dermabrasion kits: many companies now offer "microdermabrasion" scrubs for home use. Basically what these are, are creams that are densly packed with spherical scrubbing beads that are massaged into dry skin to exfoliate the top layer of the skin. They are not as effective as professional dermabrasion, but can be helpful for minor hyperpigmentation and fine lines with repeated use.

chemical peels: chemical peels are an effective way for removing fine lines and smoothing the skin. They work by removing the upper layer of the skin to expose newer, clearer, more even toned skin. They can be given in a series of mild peels or one moderate to deep peel depending on your skin. However, irritation can occur and as with vitamin A derivatives, and alpha & beta hydroxy acids sunscreen is essential because it increases the skins sensitivity to the sun.
at-home chemical peels: at-home chemical peels generally come in 3 forms (from weakest to strongest): fruit acid, lactic acid, and glycolic acid peels. Fruit acids are derived from fruit, usually citrus, apple, pumpkin, or papaya, and are generally the most gentle of these peels. Lactic acid is milk derived and is less likely to cause adverse reactions because it is an acid that is naturally present in the body, and it is typically better for use on hyperpigmentation. Glycolic acid is more likely to cause irritation than either fruit acids or lactic acids, but it is more effective at smoothing the skin than fruit or lactic acid. All of these acids only penetrate the epidermis (top layer of the skin), however there are more potent peels available such as TCA (Trichloreacetic Acid) that penetrate to the dermis, but these peels should only be done by a professional.

Product Recommendations:
vitamin A derivatives:
Neutrogena Healthy Skin Intensive Anti-wrinkle Serum
Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-wrinkle Cream
Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-wrinkle Eye Cream
Avene Ystheal
OrangeDaily Tri-Retinol Anti-aging Complex (cream)
Green Cream Level 3, 6, & 9
RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Cream
Alpha Hydrox Retinol Night Res-Q
Avene Diacneal
DDF Silky C + Retinol + Soy Luteins Serum
Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 Refining Night Cream
Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 Maximum Strength Refining Night Cream
Afirm 1x, 2x, 3x
Retin-A (Rx only)
Renova (Rx only)
Tazarotene (Rx only)
Differin /Adapalene (RX only)

vitamin C serums/creams:
OrangeDaily 10% Vitamin C Serum
Skinmedica Vitamin C Complex
Skinceuticals Serum 10 & 15
Cellex-C High Potency Serum
Peter Thomas Roth Power C 20 Serum
Philosophy Hope & a Prayer C Powder (to mix into creams, etc.)
Cellex-C Advanced-C Serum
Derma E Ester C Serum With E Skin Recovery Complex
Physicians Complex Super C-Plus Serum
PH Advantage Booster High Potency Effective C Serum

vitamin E oils/creams:
Palmers Skin Success Eventone Fade Milk With Vitamin E & Alpha Hydroxy
Nutra-E Skin Oil
Jason Natural Cosmetics Pure Beauty Oil 5,000IU Vitamin E
Derma E Vitamin E 12,000IU Creme

alpha & beta hydroxy serums/creams:
Makeupartistschoice.com Beta-Hydroxy Serum (3%, 5%, 8%)
Paula's Choice 8% AHA
Peter Thomas Roth AHA 12% Hydrating Ceramide Repair Gel
Alpha Hydrox 12% Souffle
Rachel Perry 10% Alpha & Beta Hydroxy Serum With Co-Q10
Paula's Choice 1% and 2% BHA
Bliss Labs Sleeping Peel Serum
M.D. Forte Facial Cream With Glycolic Acid
Alpha Hydrox Enhanced Cream
Alpha Hydrox Enhanced Lotion

copper peptides:
Makeupartistschoice.com Copper Peptide Serum
Skinbiology Copper Peptide Serum
Neutrogena Visably Firm Lift Serum
Neutrogena Visably Firm Active Copper Eye Cream
Neutrogena Visably Firm Active Copper Night Cream
Osmotics Blue Copper Serum

alpha-lipoic acid, DMAE, hyaluronic acid:
Reviva Labs Alpha Lipoic Acid, Vitamin C Ester, & DMAE cream
N.V. Perricone Alpha Lipoic Acid Face Firming Activator
Professional Solutions 100% Pure Hyaluronic Acid
Makeupartistschoice.com Alpha Lipoic Acid, DMAE, Ester C Facial Repair Cream
Makeupartistschoice.com Alpha Lipoic Acid, DMAE, Ester C Eye Repair Fluid
PH Advantage 45% HA Infusion Serum
Derma E Hyaluronic Acid Firming Serum
Derma E Hyaluronic Acid Day/Night Creme

at-home peels & microdermabrasion:
Makeupartistschoice.com 30% Glycolic Acid Peel
Makeupartistschoice.com 40% Lactic Acid Peel
Juice Beauty Green Apple Peel
Philosophy The Microdelivery Peel
Neutrogena Advanced Solution Facial Peel
Bliss Labs Sleeping Peel Mask
Dr. Brandt Microdermabrasion In A Jar
Murad Exfoliating Fruit Enzyme Mask
Kiehl's Epidermal Re-Texturizing Micro-Dermabrasion Scrub
Alpha Hydrox Intensive AHA Revitalizing Peel
Neutrogena Advanced Solutions At Home MicroDermabrasion System

writers block :(

2004-10-23T01:15:00.000-07:00

So this is the best stuff that I've written this year. And I've had writers block for a good long while now...Maybe I just need to write more. maybe...

Los Angeles Burning
I have a dream of Los Angeles.
Bunker Hill with it's Paint Peeled
victorian homes, looking at me
with such somber faces.
Empty streets, sunless sky.
A strange red-gray glow eminates
from Over There.
The smoke embraces me and snakes it's
tongue into my mouth.
The thunder of a rioting crowd
behind me.

In East L.A. and inside now;
behind the window Pain.
Los Angeles is burning
I can hear them mumble behind me.
A man talks, but his words are silent.
I look out the window
beside myself.
The freeway empty and night falling faster.
And in the distance Los Angeles is burning.

The fallen Tree
I sit in stone silence watching a man dissect a fallen tree.
I cannot help but think it wanted to live
being so leafy and full of color.
The branches groan and strain against the force of man.
It is futile though.
They scream and snap.
The green vigor may hold a while,
but evetually it will fade
to a crisp and crackling brown.
The leaves drying and becoming frail and shrivled.
It's last gasp spent in some paltry wood pile.

these last 3 aren't finished yet, and I'm kind of stuck wondering what to do to them. I think that could be really good, I just need to polish them up a little.

City Center
Into the center of the city tonight.
Vacant streets; closed-up storefronts
as empty/full as me.
So small among the high towers
(like how an ant must feel next to a rose bush).

I want to sink into it; permeating it.
Becoming the concrete, stone, steel, and glass
that embody it.
Invisable as they walk over me;
through me.
Hovering over bum and businessman alike.
Protecting and pittying equally.

Untitled
You ghostly walk across me;
richly opaque.
Becoming solid only within my grasp.
You evade so gracefully.

Dreamscape
The burned-out duplex.
Charred doors lead to charred bones.
Unrecognizable.
Crispy black flesh. Seared to the bone.
The odor mixing into the air.
Hollow windows looking within.

Sea breaze cleansing me through
bitter pepper trees.
Unopened wine and freinds left behind.
Until slipping down the sandy slope.
Gray frothiness enveloping me.
Drowning in the frantically gripping,
ragging sea.
Not fright, nor happiness; just calm.

there must be an escape hatch!

antiaging notepad contents

writers block :(